K-beauty skin care products are ever-evolving and multiplying as we speak. Just as you thought you have found your holy grail, new products, formula, and tools will emerge that might be even better. Are you sure which one is what and, not to mention, what it is for? There are many kinds of skincare products, and skin treatments might just be the most complex category. Among these are essences, serums, and ampoules.
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Essence vs serum vs ampoule: What are the differences?
To tell you the truth, there are no differences between essence, serum, and ampoule—meaning, they are all the same: skin treatments. Shocking, I know! After thorough research, I found out that these classifications are merely marketing terms that brands use to make their products more appealing. The lines that separate their definitions are often blurred and can usually be interchanged. Language barriers also made these terms more complicated and rather interchangeable. For instance in Korea, despite being branded as a serum, they call Estée Lauder’s Advanced Night Repair the “Brown Bottle Essence”.
But, as per rule of thumb, many Korean brands classify their skin treatments based on the viscosity of the product and concentration of the active ingredients in the formula.
If you still need a more concrete comparison between the three so you could at least sleep well tonight, I got ya, my friend! Do note that the following explanations are just commonly accepted definitions of these treatments. As I’ve said before, the lines separating these are getting blurry and blurry every day.
What is an ‘essence’ in Korean skincare?
Essences are skin treatments that have a high concentration of active ingredients. These are usually watery and come in relatively bigger bottles. Its main job (but not limited to) is to hydrate and nourish the skin.
Many Koreans see the essence as the star product in the whole skincare regimen. It is so essential that it even has a dedicated step in the 10-step Korean skincare routine.
Recommended K-beauty Essences (2021)
COSRX Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence is a concentrated treatment targeting those dry skin, fine lines, and acne scars. With 96% filtered snail mucin rich in rejuvenating and hydrating properties, those troubled spots and patches will surely disappear.
This power essence is good for all skin types even for sensitive skin because of its hypoallergenic ingredients.
The Real Ferment Micro Essence is made from 93% naturally fermented ingredients. This skin essence will quickly sink its way into your skin, repairing and delivering the nourishment that your face needs for that plump and radiant look.
Because of its effective hydrating properties, it is highly recommended for those with dry skin types.
The Real Complexion Hyaluron Skin Essence is a hybrid product that acts as a treatment, a toner, and a moisturizer all in one. This product is infused with Sodium Hyaluronate, an advanced form of hyaluronic acid that holds a thousand times more moisture than water, drawing more hydration into the skin.
This essence is good for all skin types.
What is a serum?
A serum usually has a thicker consistency and has a higher concentration of active ingredients than an essence. It also comes in a smaller bottle with a dropper or a pump. There are different kinds of serums for targeting specific skin conditions like dark spots, fine lines, wrinkles, etc.
Some serums can be used twice daily (day and night routine) while others are meant to be used once a day, usually only at night.
Recommended K-beauty Serums (2021)
Dear, Klairs Freshly Juiced Vitamin Drop is made up of Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) concentrated at 5%. It effectively clears up acne, prevents breakouts, and minimizes pores. Also known as Freshly Juiced Vitamin C Serum, it fades out dark spots and acne scars and prevents pigmentation. It is the perfect brightening product for your skin, helping you get that radiant, healthy glow.
This serum is formulated for all skin types, even those with sensitive skin. Partner this with Klairs Freshly Juiced Vitamin E Mask for a boost of nourishment. (Read more about this combo in our blog about the Four of the Best K-Beauty Skincare Product Pairs.)
I'm From Pear Serum
I’m From Pear Serum is a lightweight skin treatment for skin hydration and nourishment. It contains 83% wild pear leaves that soothe and strengthen the protective barrier of the skin. Also, among its ingredients is plant-based hyaluronic acid that helps absorb and retain moisture.
The Pear Serum is formulated for all skin types, but this vegan treatment is a life-saver for those with sensitive, dehydrated, and irritated skin.
AHA-BHA-PHA 30 Days Miracle Serum by SOME BY MI is a highly concentrated serum that contains 14.5% Centella extract that helps soothe the skin and 10,000ppm of natural tea tree extracts for pore and sebum care. It also contains AHA, BHA, and PHA—skincare acids that remove impurities, clear pores, and prevent skin moisture loss.
The Miracle Serum is dermatologically tested and can be used by all skin types but is perfect for dry, combination, acne-prone skin.
Do you have oily, oily-dehydrated, acne-prone skin and prefers a lightweight version of this serum? You can try SOME BY MI AHA-BHA-PHA 30 Days Miracle Serum Light instead. (We took the Miracle Serum Light out for a test. You can find the results from our initial review in our beauty blog: Initial Review | New Miracle Serum Light by SOME BY MI!)
What is an ampoule?
Ampoules are believed to be the most concentrated version of skin treatment. Many often dub them as “supercharged serums.” These usually have very thick consistencies. But, there are some that have similar textures as serums—reminding you of the blurred line.
Ampoules are packaged in smaller dropper bottles than serums, sometimes in vials. Since they tend to be “stronger,” you only use these in small amounts and should not be used in place of serums.
Many use ampoules when they are preparing for an event that they want to look the prettiest like their wedding, a date, first day on the job, or maybe a big promotion. For whatever reason, these ampoules are only used in a given period or when you badly need to treat a skin crisis.
Recommended K-beauty Ampoules (2021)
COSRX Full Fit Propolis Light Ampoule
COSRX Full Fit Propolis Light Ampoule has 83% Black Bee Propolis extract, a natural ingredient that soothes inflamed and irritated skin. This ampoule adds extra nourishment and hydration to the skin, leaving a plump and glowing appearance.
All skin types can benefit from the Propolis Light Ampoule. But because of its nourishing properties, it is perfect for dry and irritated skin.
ROVECTIN Clean Forever Young Biome Ampoule
ROVECTIN Clean Forever Young Biome Ampoule has a 7-layer Dualbiotic (Prebiotics and Probiotics) Complex that rejuvenates, moisturizes, and nourishes aging skin. It boasts of an oil-free, lightweight texture and targets and prevents fine lines and wrinkles.
This vegan, cruelty-free, anti-aging ampoule is formulated for all skin types, specifically those with aging/near-aging skin.
MISSHA’s Time Revolution Night Repair Probio Ampoule is a powerful, anti-aging and skin repair product. This treatment’s new formulation now has 10 different probiotics all working together to strengthen and protect your skin. It can also repair, hydrate, smoothen, and revitalize your skin, giving you that youthful, glowing look.
This ampoule is recommended for all skin types, even for sensitive and acne-prone skin.
Which is more expensive: essence, serum, and ampoule?
Usually, serums and ampoules are more expensive than essences. This is especially true if you take the price per volume into consideration. But, given that the potency of the ingredients for serums and ampoules are usually higher than essences, you can still count it as relatively fair pricing. Plus, in many cases, you’ll only need a few drops. So, a little bottle will go a long way.
Should I include all three treatments into my skincare routine?
It all depends on what your skin needs (and likes). When following the Korean skincare regimen, an essence by itself is considered a single step. So, it would be a debate whether you would add serum or ampoules into the picture.
To help you decide which serum or ampoule (or any skincare product) to choose, here are some of the simple guidelines from our blog post, Beginner’s Guide to Choosing Skincare Products:
- You need to determine your skincare goals and identify your skin concerns. Do you want to brighten up your skin? Are you aiming to get the glass skin look? Is your goal to look 10 years younger? Knowing what you want and need will help you filter the products that you will choose from.
- You also need to correctly identify your skin type and condition. Many people jump into using skincare products without accurately identifying their skin type and age. A lot of skincare products, including serums and ampoules are formulated for certain skin types. For maximum benefits, choose those that are made for your skin type and concern.
- Next is to review the ingredients of the serum or ampoule that you are eyeing. Do a little research on what the active ingredients are and what skin concerns these are for. If it aligns with your skincare goal, then perhaps it is worth a try. (Shameless plug: Check out our product reviews! We have summarized and highlighted the most common and important points from hundreds of user reviews all over the internet, so you won’t have to. Saves you the time and effort in choosing the right products for your skin.)
- Check if you are not allergic to any ingredient listed. We have encountered a lot of user reviews saying that they had allergic reactions to this and that. Being aware of your skin conditions will save you from the red, itchy, horror. Note that serums and ampoules are too harsh for some, even if they are not allergic to any ingredient in the product. If you don’t know how your skin will react, you can try out testers and also do patch tests.
- Make sure to check if these ingredients are compatible with the ones that you are already using. There are some products and ingredients that are a match made in heaven. For instance, Klairs Freshly Juiced Vitamin Drop and Vitamin E Mask is a great match as vitamin E boosts vitamin C. However, vitamin C might not mix well with AHAs and BHAs as these are all exfoliants. While some skin types can tolerate these, using them together may lead to irritation. You might need to plan your frequency of use for these products if you are adding them into your routine.
Are you a beginner needing more help in choosing products? You can read the full article for these guidelines.
What comes first: essence, serum, or ampoule?
Another important thing to note is the order of application for these skin treatments. When layering treatment products, apply from thinnest to thickest consistency. So, after cleansing and toning, apply your essence first before your serum. Layer your ampoule last for your treatment step.
Following this order of application will ensure maximum absorption so that your skin will effectively get all the good stuff out of your essence, serum, and ampoule.
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